The 17 most popular skincare ingredients – explained
These days there’s so much information available about skin care products that it’s hard to believe that any ingredient could elude us. But sometimes, an overabundance of information makes it difficult to understand these ingredients—especially ones with complex-sounding scientific names. And even if you were to read all the ingredients on the back of a product, you likely don’t know what any of them are or why they are in the formula. Let’s look at some popular skincare ingredients you need to know about.
Skin Care Ingredient #1: Aloe Vera
Your beach bag is probably stocked with aloe vera during summer—and you aren’t alone. According to the Skin Cancer Foundation, one of the most popular uses for aloe vera gel—a byproduct of the aloe vera plant—is for soothing sunburns. This ingredient also provides antioxidant benefits. Aloe vera is also often found in moisturizing formulations and is suitable for any skin type.
Cool fact: Sometimes water saturated with Aloe vera is used as a base for a skin care product, which is a good sign that it’s a quality product!
Skin Care Ingredient #2: Ceramides
Ceramides are vital to maintaining your skin’s barrier because of their hydrating properties. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) shares that moisturizers formulated with lipids, such as ceramides, are usually well tolerated and improve the skin barrier, which is often compromised in people with rosacea. Ceramides in skin care products tend to mimic our skin’s lipids, so they are very beneficial.
Skin Care Ingredient #3: Azelaic Acid
You might have noticed more people talking about this powerhouse ingredient in recent years. While it’s part of a drug classification called dicarboxylic acids, it’s often included in skin care products due to its anti-inflammatory properties. According to the National Center for Biotechnology Information (NCBI), creams containing azelaic acid effectively treat inflammatory acne. In contrast, gels containing the ingredient effectively treat mild to moderate rosacea.
Skin Care Ingredient #4: Caffeine
You’re familiar with caffeine as the ingredient that gives your coffee its kick, but it also has topical benefits for your skin. Eye creams formulated with caffeine can help awaken the appearance by shrinking swollen tissues of your eye contour area and help combat the appearance of dark circles under the eyes. The effect is temporary, however, and you need to use it to see benefits.
Skin Care Ingredient #5: Retinol
Retinol is part of the family of Vitamin A skincare actives called “Retinoids.” Retinoids are one of the most talked about anti-aging ingredients, and many in the industry consider them the gold standard in anti-aging ingredients.
Retinol is a vitamin A compound (sold over the counter), one of the most well-known antioxidants widely used in non-prescription wrinkle creams, and the least irritating retinoid. In addition to helping with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, retinol is recommended for addressing the development and maintenance of acne.
Remember that retinol is NOT the same ingredient as prescription strength RETIN-A. Retin-A- (generic name Tretinoin) is a very potent form of topical Vitamin A, which can cause severe skin irritation if misused (and even birth defects if taken too much internally in its ingestible form, called Accutane. Accutane is now marketed as “Absorica” or “Claravis,” among other names.)
I have feelings about using Retinoids, whether used over the counter or in prescription form. They can be very effective, yes, but there is a growing community of doctors, estheticians, and beauty experts who have been questioning their use long term and what that does to the strength and integrity of the skin.
Long-term skin thinning and the fact that the skin is in a perpetual state of “micro” irritation (not to mention major if you use it wrong!!) has led many to question its long-term use and irritation risks. In my online skin course, “Nude Skin,” I explore the science of retinoids in greater detail and provide what I believe to be better anti-aging alternatives.
Skin Care Ingredient #6: Bakuchiol
While you may not find it easy to say this particular ingredient, it might be easier to identify in your products. A more natural alternative to retinol, as per the NCBI, bakuchiol is a newer anti-aging compound to arrive on the scene. Derived from a plant extract, it offers many of the same benefits of retinol—evens skin tone and reduces fine lines and wrinkles—without the dryness and irritation often associated with retinoids. More research needs to be done with this particular ingredient; however, it can be an excellent alternative for those who choose not to use retinoids in any form.
Skin Care Ingredient #7: Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid may have acid in its name, but it is different from the other acids in this guide. Hyaluronic acid doesn’t exfoliate. Instead, it helps moisturize. It’s a naturally occurring substance in the body, and according to NCBI has a unique capacity to bind and retain water molecules. In humans, it’s most abundant in the skin but also lubricates joints and regulates several parts of tissue repair. Add hydrating serums or moisturizers formulated with hyaluronic acid to amp up hydration on your skin’s surface.
To use “HA” properly, ALWAYS FOLLOW and seal it with a moisturizer so that the water it brings to your skin’s surface doesn’t evaporate, taking precious moisture with it.
Skin Care Ingredient #8: Niacinamide
Inflammation can have many causes, but thankfully, niacinamide is an anti-inflammatory ingredient that can be used to reduce irritation on the skin’s surface. The AAD specifies that skin care products formulated with niacinamide can be used to help those who are prone to experiencing irritation or have acne-prone skin. It also helps to refine skin texture and pore size. Start by using it in a night care serum or cream!
Skin Care Ingredient #9: Benzoyl Peroxide
If you’ve ever dealt with acne, then you know benzoyl peroxide. The American Academy of Dermatology (AAD) recommends benzoyl peroxide as a topical treatment for acne because it’s an antibacterial agent. It can be found in cleansers, creams, and gels and used as a leave-on or wash-off product.
Hot tip – If you use it in a cleanser, you can leave the wash on your skin for a few minutes as a “mini-mask” to kill acne bacteria! (Make sure to rinse well. ) If you use Benzoyl peroxide in a leave-on product ( a targeted cream or gel treatment), be sure not to use any other products containing acids or exfoliating agents simultaneously to avoid irritation.
Skin Care Ingredient #10: Lactic Acid
Derived from sour milk, lactic acid is a chemical exfoliator that uses chemicals to remove dead cells from the skin. The Mayo Clinic recommends using over-the-counter creams formulated with lactic acid to help dry, scaly skin. Lactic acids are an excellent choice for dehydrated or sensitive skin because you can get great exfoliation benefits without irritation. Lactic acid also helps skin retain moisture more easily!
Skin Care Ingredient #11: Citric Acid
You may not have heard of citric acid, but if you love skin care, you’re undoubtedly aware of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids). Alpha hydroxy acids have risen in popularity for their ability to help exfoliate dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. Citric acid is one AHA found in various products, from sheet masks to face serums.
Skin Care Ingredient #12: Clay
Good, old-fashioned clay is another ingredient that has rapidly gained fans and has been added to more and more skincare formulas as of late. Most often, clay can be found in face masks, but facial cleansers are formulated with clay too. Clays are great for purging clogged pores, but they can cause dry skin with overuse, so gauge your skin’s reaction when you use them. Also, when removing a clay mask or cleanser, ensure you get your face wet so that you aren’t tugging at your skin unnecessarily to remove it.
Skin Care Ingredient #13: Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid, and as such, its primary purpose in skin care product formulas is to help polish away dead skin cells from the skin’s surface. Glycolic acid is an example of a chemical exfoliator, so it’s important to introduce products containing glycolic acid slowly to avoid over-exfoliating and irritation. It’s also important to know that AHAs can increase sun sensitivity, so be sure to pair your glycolic acid products with a broad-spectrum sunscreen daily and take other sun protection measures.
Skin Care Ingredient #14: Salicylic Acid
You may know by now that hydroxy acids are split into two categories: AHAs and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). We’ve already covered AHAs, but do you know the difference between AHAs and BHAs? Both help to remove dead skin cells on the skin’s surface, but BHAs are more commonly found in acne formulations. AHAs work more on the skin’s surface and are great for exfoliating fine lines and dark spots, while BHAs can get down into pores and cut through oil, clean them out, and get rid of bacteria. The most common BHA is salicylic acid, which the AAD notes as an over-the-counter acne ingredient that works.
Skin Care Ingredient #15: Vitamin C
Vitamin C isn’t just in your orange juice; it’s in skin care products too! The AAD recommends adding topical vitamin C to your routine to help reduce the appearance of dark spots over time—with continued use. I have an entire blog post on Vitamin C, so be sure to check that out.
Skin Care Ingredient #16: Lipohydroxy Acid
While lipo hydroxy acid may not be as widely discussed as AHAs and BHAs, it’s commonly used in skincare and personal care products. As the NCBI explains, lipo hydroxy acid is a derivative of salicylic acid with acne-treating and exfoliating and comedolytic properties—meaning it inhibits pore clogging. As it appears to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory, it’s often effective in fighting acne.
Skin Care Ingredient #17: Collagen
We couldn’t end a list of popular skincare ingredients without discussing a tried-and-true—collagen. In the past ten years, we’ve seen the popularity of collagen grow, so much so that it’s become available in several forms, even ingestible (collagen juice, anyone?). This natural protein improves skin elasticity, removes fine lines and wrinkles, and improves skin barrier function. In other words, if you notice your skin sagging, you may want to incorporate collagen into your skincare routine.
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